Morning Stitchers!!
Welcome back to part four of the Sophia Sew-a-long where it’s time to start sewing… soon! Let’s make the top of Sophia shall we?!
First up we better cut out and attach the interfacing to the facings.
I am assuming you are using iron on interfacing – but if you are using sew on here’s a great tutorial on how to apply that.
Fold your interfacing and attach the pattern pieces for the facing to cut around using your chosen method. I use pattern weights, rotary cutter and mat for this bit.
You only need a little bit of interfacing for the facings. I’m just using a small scrap of interfacing here so it’s a good scrap buster!
Here is the cutting guide so you can see what pattern pieces are what so from the interfacing cut:
1 x Back Facing (piece 3) on the fold
1 x Front Facing (piece 4) on the fold
4 x Armhole Facing (piece 5)
- Lay the interfacing with glue side up on ironing board/surface, smoothing out kinks (the problem with interfacing is you can’t iron it but if it’s really crumpled – like mine – put something heavy to press it out)
- Lay fabric with right side up on top carefully and smooth out kinks
- Place a cloth on top so the iron doesn’t get covered in interfacing glue (not fun to remove!) and press hard – hold down for about 15secs on each bit. Don’t move the iron around quickly it will move the fabric too!
- Trim off any excess interfacing.
This is what you will be left with – 4 armhole facings, 1 back facing and 1 front facing all interfaced.
OK now we sew!! 🙂
One of the first directions on this pattern is to finish your edges before you start sewing together- this is something I have chosen to ignore before as I like using french seams (tutorial here) or finishing the seams after in other ways but this time I thought I would stick to the guide…
- Overlock/serge the raw edges of the pattern pieces and the bottom edges of all the interfaced facings without cutting off any fabric (if you do you need to make sure you take this off the seam allowance when sewing.)
If you don’t have an overlocker machine you can do this using your zig zag stitch on your sewing machine instead.
Now to our sewing machines… first things first, make sure you’ve changed the machine to matching thread and bobbin.
SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS:
- Normal tension (3-6)
- Straight Stitch (A)
- Normal length (2-4)
- Normal width (2-4)
ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES 1.5cm UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
ARMHOLE FACINGS
- With right sides together (RST) pin the armhole facings together at the short end of the longer curve.
- Sew at 1.5cm
- Press seam open or overlock/zig together
Do the same for the neck facing, sewing the side seams RST at both ends so you have this:
Now get your bodice pieces ready…
- You simply pin the back bodice to the front bodice along the shoulders RST like above.
- Sew the seam, removing the pins as you go
- Press open – if you have a tailors ham use it here as the curve of the shoulders doesn’t like being pressed flat!
- With the bodice the right side out pin the neckline facing (RST) around the edge of the neckline.
- If they don’t match exactly don’t worry too much just do the best you can! If they REALLY don’t match then you might have to go back a few steps, unpick and adjust your facing but don’t fear because that’s what sewing is all about… learning from your mistakes!! 😉
- Sew the whole way round the neckline with a 1cm seam allowance overlapping at the end and beginning to hold the stitches in.
- Make little snips around the curve making sure not to cut into the stitching!
- Press on both the wrong side and the right side
- With the bodice the right side out -press well to get the facing to stay on the inside.
- It’s good to roll the right side over to the facing a bit with the iron so you can’t see the facing peek out!
- Do the same for the armhole facings.
- Sewing at a 1cm seam allowance across the open armhole.
You don’t need to press these yet but do snip into the curves.
With the top wrong side out – flip out the armhole facings and pin down from the top of the armhole facing all the way to the hem edge.
- Then sew along the seam back to the good ole trusty 1.5cm seam allowance
- Press seams open
Now hem the bottom… I actually left mine un-hemmed with the raw edge overlocked because I didn’t want to lose any length but I fully suggest you hem your tops- even if it’s a just a mini hem.
- The pattern suggests a 1cm hem so with the wrong side out turn up the bottom of the top by 1cm, pressing as you go
- Then fold over by another 1cm pressing and pinning as you go
- Then sew close to the fold line, removing pins as you sew
Here are some great tips on different ways to hem by the wonderful Colette
THE FINAL STEP…
Press like crazy!!
- With the wrong side out press those armhole facings (they may need some persuasion!!)
- Then turn the top right side out and press the armholes in again.
- If you want to – tack a few stitches in a nice subtle place (with matching thread) to keep all your facings in place!
Give the whole top a good press, put it on and get in front of a mirror because it’s time to see what you just made…
YAY! Well done you!!
Make sure you show us what you’ve made – put your pics up on the Fold Line group (now 60 strong!) or if you’d prefer, email it to me on gabby@livingonashoestring.net and I’ll put them up on the Pinterest board! Can’t wait to see your makes!
Now we’ve made the top there’s only one thing for it… it’s time to sew up the Sophia skirt so I’ll see you for part one of that soon!
Happy sewing, interfacing and pressing,
PS. Hope you like my little blog make over – it’s mainly just the new menu bar but there is more coming when I get a little time… haha time! 😉
